Rundownunder into Western Australia

In the Rundownunder challenge, the start of 2023 saw me walking / running / hiking, virtually, across the top of the Northern Territory. The travelling north along the eastern seaboard of Australia in the first year or so of the challenge covered areas where the towns were relatively close together. When I left Brisbane and started heading west the towns were about 100 or so km apart. But the further west I got in the challenge, it became less populated and the more distance between towns. One of the postcards from last year wasn’t even for a town, but for a huge cattle station. As I traversed across the Northern Territory towards the Western Australia border I virtually passed through some interesting places. What would 2023 bring?

(Postcards and descriptions of postcards and places in quotes are quoted from the Rundownunder postcard emails, unless otherwise indicated)

25th January 2023 – Timber Creek, NT

“Timber Creek is the traditional land of the Ngaliwurra Aboriginal people, who provided early European settlers with valuable bush knowledge and acted as guides for police. Throughout the region Ngaringman is the main language except at Yarralin where it is Gurundji.

In 1855 the explorer Augustus Charles Gregory, financially backed by the Colonial Office, sailed from Moreton Bay, around the coast of Queensland and the Northern Territory and up the Victoria River. Gregory’s boat was wrecked at the site of Timber Creek and it is claimed that Gregory named the site after cutting timber to repair his vessel. The site of Gregory’s camp, known as Gregory’s Tree Reserve, can be found to the west of the town. The boab tree with the date ‘2 July 1856’ clearly carved in it can be accessed from a track which runs from a cairn on the Victoria Highway to the tree at the riverside. Over a period of eight months Gregory with various numbers of the expedition explored large areas of the Victoria River catchment and penetrated nearly 500 km south, along Sturt Creek, to the edge of the Great Sandy Desert.

Gregory was one of the many believers in an ‘inland sea’ within Australia’s centre. He explored the Elsey, Roper and McArthur Rivers, in 16 months travelling more than 8,000 km. The subsequent settlement of the area resulted in Timber Creek becoming an important port for the surrounding cattle stations particularly Victoria River Downs Station which was then the largest pastoral enterprise in Australia. The river was used until the 1930s when road transport made it redundant. A police station was first established in Timber Creek in 1898. Initially just a hut and a goat yard, the dwellings were upgraded to iron and steel in 1908, now the Timber Creek Police Station Museum.”

6th March 2023 – WA Border

“Western Australia (abbreviated as WA) is a state occupying the entire western third of Australia. It is bounded by the Indian Ocean to the north and west, the Great Australian Bight and Southern Ocean to the south, the Northern Territory to the north-east and South Australia to the south-east. Western Australia is Australia’s largest state with a total land area of 2,529,875 square kilometres, and the second-largest country subdivision in the world – however, a significant part of it is sparsely populated. The state has about 2.565 million inhabitants, around 11% of the national total. 92% of the population lives in the south-west corner of the state.

The first European visitor to Western Australia was the Dutch explorer Dirk Hartog, who visited the Western Australian coast in 1616. The first European inhabitants were the crew of the British East Indiaman Tryall, who were wrecked on Tryal Rocks in May 1622. The New South Wales colonial government established a convict-supported military garrison at King George III Sound, at present-day Albany, in 1826, which was followed by the establishment of the Swan River Colony in 1829, including the site of the present-day capital, Perth. York was the first inland settlement in Western Australia. Situated 97 kilometres east of Perth, it was settled on 16 September 1831.

Today, the WA economy mainly relies on mining, agriculture and tourism. The state produces 46% of Australia’s exports. Western Australia is the second-largest iron ore producer in the world.”

17th March 2023 – Kununurra, WA

“Kununurra is a town in far northern Western Australia located at the eastern extremity of the Kimberley Region approximately 40 kilometres from the border with the Northern Territory. Kununurra was initiated to service the Ord River Irrigation Scheme. Kununurra is the largest town in Western Australia north of Broome, and is situated in among the scenic hills and ranges of the far north-east Kimberley Region, having an abundance of fresh water, conserved by the Ord River Diversion dam and the main Ord River Dam.

Kununurra is the gateway town to the East Kimberley, and a great base if you’d like to explore some of Western Australia’s most remarkable natural attractions, including World Heritage-listed Purnululu National Park and its beehive-shaped Bungle Bungle Range. Adventure is synonymous with Kununurra, home to lakes, rivers, waterfalls and barramundi. It’s easy to see why the name means “Big Water” in the language of local Aboriginal people, who have roamed this landscape for thousands of years.”

10th May 2022 – 5000km done

Since 9th November 2020, when I started the challenge I have walked / ran / hiked over 5000km as part of this challenge. Along the way I injured my knee and spent about a month where I couldn’t do much. In March this year I got COVID and spent a week in quarantine and a few weeks recovering before starting to exercise again. In early May I got a molar tooth removed (which meant no exercise for about a week). But I got this far and am now more than 1/3rd the way around Australia. Perth, the capital city of Western Australia and my next major milestone is still more than 3000km away, considerably more than a year of walking for me.

12th May 2023 – Warmun

“Warmun, once known as Turkey Creek, is a quiet and tiny Aboriginal settlement on the Great Northern Road between Broome and Kununurra. It is now run by the local Warmun community who have constructed a roadhouse, accommodation facilities and an impressive art gallery. The community promote the town as the principal access point to Purnululu National Park and the famous Bungle Bungles. Although it was known as Turkey Creek for most of its life, in recent times it has reverted to the Kitja name for the area which is Warmun.

Warmun has been the home to some of the most admired of Australia’s Aboriginal artists, particularly exponents of what has become known as East Kimberley Aboriginal Art. The most famous of all the local artists was Rover Thomas who, while being born in the Great Sandy Desert south of Warmun, moved to Turkey Creek where he developed a unique style of painting. He died in 1998 but his influence remains.“

14th June 2023 – Halls Creek

“Halls Creek is the only sizeable town for 600 km on the Highway, so be prepared for a lot of Outback Australia [as] you continue YOUR journey. Halls Creek is also the northern end of the Canning Stock Route, which runs 1,850 km through the Great Sandy Desert until the southern end of the route at Wiluna.

The town functions as a major hub for the local indigenous population and as a support centre for cattle stations in the area. The optimal time to visit Halls Creek is in the Dry season from mid-April to mid-October. The temperatures are mild and the humidity low. You can almost be guaranteed of there being no rain and the skies are a bright clear blue much of the time. The night skies are superb for star gazing and offer great viewing of any comets that may be passing. The area is at its busiest during June and July which are the coolest months.

The build up to The Wet (usually October and November) can become quite hot and humid with daily maximum temperatures climbing over 40 degrees Celsius. By planning your days carefully, with early morning starts, resting during the middle of the day, before venturing out again late in the afternoon you will be rewarded with a quite different perspective of the area. The sunsets are at their best and you may get to see some magnificent natural light shows in the sky as the storm clouds roll in accompanied by the lightning. Most locals will tell you that their favourite time of year is once the Wet arrives which can happen in December but usually January as the rain is welcome relief from the recent heat. This is also the time that many of the local swimming holes and waterfalls are rejuvenated. Some operations do close over the Wet season as some access roads become impassable so if you have a particular must see attraction it is advisable to check that it will be accessible.”

14th July 2023 – Mueller Ranges

“Mueller Ranges is a suburb in the Derby-West Kimberley Region of Western Australia. Mueller Ranges has a population of around 500 people, with the major industry being public administration & safety, and a majority of workers being labourers. Around 97 families live in the area and of those 69.1% have one or more children under the age of 15. 29.9% of families have only a single parent while 16.5% of couples have no children. Mueller Ranges covers an area of approximately 9,767,207 hectares or around 97,672 square kilometres (km2) (24,135,294 acres).

Of the 100 private dwellings in Mueller Ranges 4% are owned outright by their occupiers, 3% are being purchased (eg. by mortgage) and 85% are being rented. In terms of people aged 15 years or more living in Mueller Ranges 31% are married, 2% are divorced, 2% are separated, 3% are widowed and 62% have never married.”

17th August 2023 – Fitzroy Crossing

“Set on the banks of the mighty Fitzroy River, Fitzroy Crossing in Western Australia is a true outback town. Drive out to the original town site and visit the legendary Crossing Inn, built in 1897. The Inn has welcomed travellers and locals since its establishment by Joseph Blythe. Originally a “shanty inn and trade store” that served prospectors, bullock team drivers, cattle drovers and locals, it has operated on the same site ever since… although floodwaters have meant continual rebuilding over the years. Floodwaters through the bars at the Inn are measured by bricks up the wall, and in 1993 this was recorded at 9 bricks high.

The town is a major centre for indigenous Aboriginal people. The Crossing Inn supports many of the initiatives aimed at improving the well-being of the community. For example, inspired by the success of the High School winning the 2000 Olympic Art Competition, the Crossing Inn sponsored and challenged the local youth to do paintings for the outside walls of the 100-year-old hotel. The results are amazing – outstanding in both artistic merit and their local content. So the wall of this popular and historic hotel are now a tourist attraction in their own right, and are a wonderful museum of local heritage, culture and art.

Today, Fitzroy Crossing in WA is a great base to explore Tunnel Creek National Park and Windjana Gorge National Park. It’s also the gateway to the Geikie Gorge National Park, a spectacular waterway with soaring weathered cliffs and abundant wildlife. Indigenous tours also offer an excellent insight to local Indigenous history and culture, including bush tucker and medicine. Try your luck at Barramundi fishing on the Fitzroy River.

Mimbi Caves are located 90 km east of Fitzroy Crossing and is accessible through a tour. The cave system reveals ancient large scale fossilised reefs that are amongst the best preserved in the world. This extraordinary location attracts geologists from all over the world and you can view speleothems, tall slender stalagmites, shawls, flowstones and sparkling calcite crystals formed over millennia.”

27th September 2023 – Willare

“Willare Bridge Roadhouse is located in between Broome & Derby on the beautiful Fitzroy River. Known as Beef & Barra country. Willare & nearby Fitzroy River offer one of the best spots for fishing in the Kimberley. The roadhouse itself provides guests with luscious green camping sites, swimming pool, ensuite dongas, Free laundry, vast variety of meals from our licenced restaurant & a relaxed, inviting & friendly atmosphere.”

On 10th October 2023, I walked 20km in a single walk, which is my longest walk so far since starting the Rundownunder challenge.

12th October 2023 – Broome

“Where the sky meets the land, the desert meets the sea, where white sands, red rocks and cobalt blue waters come together; on a peninsula not more than 15km long, here rests the town of Broome. Often referred to as the pearl of North West Australia, Broome is Western Australia’s coastal gateway to the magnificent wilderness region of the Kimberley. It’s also home to the world-famous white sands of Cable Beach, making it one of the State’s most popular holiday destinations.  Ranked among the world’s top beaches, it’s easy to see why Cable Beach is one of Australia’s favourite holiday resorts.

Broome’s natural environment draws visitors from around the world. The amazing turquoise waters and the intensely coloured red earth leave an indelible impression and continue to inspire artists and photographers. Roebuck Bay is a haven for thousands of migratory birds, and the waters around Broome attract fishing enthusiasts keen to try their hand at catching some of the tropical species. Whales, dolphins and turtles all populate local waters, and the dinosaurs that roamed the ancient lands have left their mark, with their footsteps preserved in reef rock in Roebuck Bay and along the coast towards the Dampier Peninsula.

Learn about the rough and tumble early days of pearling, when Broome’s name was known the world over for the size and quality of its mother of pearl and browse the jewellery showrooms to discover the exquisite Australian South Sea Pearl. Evidence of the past can be seen around the town, including restored pearling luggers, the world’s oldest outdoor picture gardens and heritage buildings.

A holiday in this pearling town is not complete without taking one of the many Broome tours on offer.  Why not take a camel ride along Cable Beach, find out about the fascinating history of the Broome hard hat divers or visit a pearl farm. See dinosaur footprints on a hovercraft ride, kayak Gantheaume Point or enjoy a sunset cruise on a restored pearling lugger. Whether you want to pitch a tent at one of the caravan and camping grounds, stay with your family in self-contained accommodation or enjoy the luxury of a resort hotel, Broome has it all.”

6th November 2023 – Bindyadanga

“​Bidyadanga is the largest remote Aboriginal community in Western Australia with a population of approximately 850 residents and is home to the Karajarri, Juwalinny, Mangala, Nyungamarta and Yulpartja language groups. Rich in history, art and culture and with a developing economy, Bidyadanga has many community facilities and infrastructure to support community’s people.

​The word Bidyadanga comes from a word for “emu watering hole” (pijarta or bidyada).

​In 1802 a French Navigator by the name of Baudin sailed into La Grange Bay and named it after a French Mathematician in the Prussian Court. Bidyadanga was officially created by the establishment of La Grange Mission in 1955 although it was settled around 1889 when a telegraph station was built at La Grange Bay. This station linked cables to Broome, Marble Bar and Perth. In 1931 the West Australian government set aside approximately 180 ha of land near a traditional meeting ground for a reserve and ration depot for Aboriginal people which was later taken over and managed as a Catholic Mission.

The first Aboriginal people near La Grange were the Nadja-Nadja (salt-water people who spoke the Karajarri language). The Mangala, Yulparija, Juwaliny and Nyanyumarta people came to La Grange from the desert and the coast.

In 1961, Father McKelson came to be the parish priest. Father McKelson stayed for over 30 years and was instrumental in translating all five languages into English. He would speak in language at weekly services and was considered a true local, genuinely respected by his congregation.”

30th November 2023 – Sandfire

“Sandfire is a location and roadhouse on western edge of the Great Sandy Desert. The area surrounding the roadhouse is of high cultural significance to the Nyangumarta People, who hold native title over the area. It is only one of three fuel stations; the others being Pardoo (which you will reach at your next stop) and Roebuck roadhouses in the 610 km between those two towns.

The roadhouse owes its existence [to] Eddie and Kath Norton who originally got the project going and ran the establishment for some years before retiring to Broome. Eddie was almost 60 years old when he suggested to his wife that they move into the desert and try to make a living selling fuel to passing travellers. Somewhat surprisingly, Kath supported the idea and Eddie set about trying to get government permission to use some land between Hedland and Broome. At first they offered him some land half way between the two towns but this just happened to be in the middle of a salt marsh that was subject to flooding. When this was pointed out, they sensibly allowed Eddie to select his own block and he chose 10 acres 296 kilometres from Port Hedland and 314 kilometres from Broome.

Eddie and Kath moved out to the location with their three teenage children. The site chosen was up on a hill with access to good bore water just 70 feet down. The first fuel sale was made on Good Friday 1970, with fuel being siphoned from 44 gallon drums with a hand pump. Payment was made in the form of a carton of beer. The family lived in a caravan and it was some time before the operation was anything more than a rough bough shed and the van. The first permanent building was ready for business in December 1970 and gradually the roadhouse took shape. A tavern was opened in 1974. Kath was a keen gardener and the area around the buildings became a green oasis. By 1981 the road between Port Hedland and Broome was sealed and life at the roadhouse started to become less harsh as more facilities became available. The name Sandfire apparently comes from one of the last entries in Ludwig Lichardt’s diary about the sand being so hot it appeared to be on fire. Eddie Norton died in 1991 aged 81. His roadhouse remains and has continued to thrive.

There is a pleasant rest area next to the roadhouse with tables nestled under shady trees and surrounded by bougainvillea and palm trees. There is a flock of peacocks resident at the roadhouse which are quite tame and seem to relish the attention of travellers and their cameras.

Tall tales and True : The Sandfire Sleazy Sleeveless Shirt Club. The tradition began on the 28th of May 1981 when mates of truckie Tom Sheehan decided to forcibly trim the sleeves of his rather ragged shirt. Somehow this one prank evolved into a way to raise money for the Royal Flying Doctor Service. You could become a member by cutting off a sleeve and pinning it to the roof. For the privilege of destroying your item of clothing and to join the ‘club’ you paid a $10 fee. If you also cut off your other sleeve, you got an $8 discount. By 1986 over $2000 had been collected for the R.F.D.S. and the roof was decorated with over 800 sleeves of varying types.

How long this tradition went on for remains a mystery but it probably ended 2007 when there was a disastrous fire that saw a great deal of the building severely damaged. It is probably safe to assume that all the shirt sleeves hanging from the roof contributed to the fire. The roadhouse was re-built but in 2009 it was damaged again. The roadhouse continues to operate and is open 12 hours a day from 7am to 7pm.”

31st December 2023 – Pardoo Roadhouse

“Whilst running or walking south, [I] have had Eighty Mile Beach on [my] right hand side. It is a beach some 220 kilometres in length, forming the coastline where the Great Sandy Desert approaches the Indian Ocean. It is one of the most important sites for migratory shorebirds, or waders, in Australia, and is recognised as a wetland of international importance under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands.

Breaking NEWS – Pardoo Roadhouse in Western Australia’s Pilbara was “wiped out” by the now former tropical cyclone Ilsa in April 2023, with one of the owners saying he feels “lucky to be alive” after the category five system barrelled over the region early on Friday morning. The roadhouse bore the brunt of the ferocious storm. “There’s actually nothing left, just the bare bones of the roadhouse,” he said. All the roof is gone, everything else is gone, any accommodation dongas we had, everything’s blown away, there’s not even one wood pile left from them.” Pardoo Roadhouse is a family operated business. We enjoy operating and living at the Roadhouse throughout the year, exploring surrounding areas including the Cape Keraudren, Marble Bar, Broome and Port Hedland. The Roadhouse is a fully self-sufficient operation providing and generating its own electricity and water, all sewerage and general waste is dealt with on site. The Roadhouse offers fuel, food, great coffee, a convenience store, souvenir, accommodation, camping sites and a powered caravan park. Fresh food and all other stock is road freighted to the Roadhouse from Broome and Perth. If you like good coffee, and sausage roll you have come to the right place. We are serving best coffee on the road and sausage roll so make sure you stop by and try it! The friendly staff are sure to help you in any way they can. Our well-equipped convenience store will help with anything you may have forgotten along the way.

Cape Keraudren is only 14kms away where you can fish, swim, snorkel or just enjoy your surrounds.”

For all of 2023, I walked / ran / hiked 1787km. That averages 34.27km per week for the year. The total distance I’ve covered in the Rundownunder challenge so far is 6272km. To get to Perth, Western Australia by the end of 2024 I have to walk / run / hike 1867km which means I would need to average 35.8km per week for all of 2024. I guess I’ll just have to see what 2024 brings, but my goal is to reach Perth by the end of that year.