The Camino De Santiago

On 1st September I signed up for another virtual fitness challenge, the Conqueror Challenges Camino de Santiago Challenge. This challenge, like the Lands End to John O’Groats one I did earlier in the year, is being done by Kickbike. It is a 480mile / 774km journey from Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port in the foothills of the French Pyrenees to St James of the Field of Stars Cathedral in Santiago De Compostela, Spain. The Camino Frances route holds a UNESCO World Heritage Site designation. I have allowed myself 12 weeks to complete it – in other words, I want to finish it by the end of the year.

Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port has been a meeting point for Camino pilgrims since the 10th century. Entrance was via the Porte Saint-Jacques, the city gate, which entered the UNESCO World Heritage register in 1998.

Destroyed by Richard the Lionheart’s troops in 1177, it was rebuilt in late 12th century as part of the Spanish Kingdom of Lower Navarra. Ownership changed numerous times over the centuries until late 18th century when the Kingdom of Lower Navarra was abolished and the town remained in French hands.

Pilgrims began their journey from the church Notre-Dame du Bout du Pont, crossed River Nive on Pont Saint Jean (bridge) and down Rue d’Espagne to finally exit the town through Port d’Espagne. Here they decided whether to take the Napoleon Route across the mountains or via the valley through the village of Valcarlos.

5th September 2021 – Napolean Route

“Named after Napoleon Bonaparte, the route was of strategic importance during the Napoleonic Wars in early 19th century as a means of crossing into Spain. Although, Emperor Charlemagne is recorded as having crossed this route approximately 1000 years earlier during the Battle of Roncevaux Pass. Given that Charlemagne united the majority of western and central Europe in the Early Middle Ages, it is thought that he served as a source of inspiration to Napoleon in his own quest to rule Europe.

Whilst an arduous mountain crossing over the Roncevaux Pass, the pilgrims have for many centuries been using the route due to its lack of trees and limited places for bandits to hide; unlike the heavily wooded valley route through Valcarlos.

Beginning with a constant ascent for 20km, the Napoleon Route promises mountain meadows and spectacular mountain views interspersed with country houses. Just outside of Orisson you will come across the statue of Virgen d’Orisson (Virgin of Orisson) reportedly carried from Lourdes by shepherds and if you listen carefully you might hear the sheep bells ringing in the countryside.” (Info from postcard email).

At this point in the challenge I had completed 8% of the total distance in 4% of the time I allotted to complete it. In other words, I was twice as far along as I needed to be to complete the challenge on time. But then, I had only just started the challenge!

6th September 2021 – Pamplona

“Hemingway, running with the bulls, historic architecture and a military citadel are just some of the places to explore whilst in Pamplona.

Pamplona is the capital of the Navarra region in the north of Spain. The town is famous for its Running with the Bulls Festival, known as San Fermin. It is a week-long festival, held in July of each year, on a course that measures 875m and runs through the cobbled streets of the Old Town. Six fighting bulls and six tame oxen, wearing bells, are released into the streets to chase the runners who are dressed in traditional costume of white clothes and red bandanna. The whole run lasts only a few minutes but the festival continues with dancing, drinking, eating, parades and nightly fireworks.

Inside the city walls stands a 16th century military citadel. A pentagon-shaped fortress, it was ordered to be built by King Felipe II in 1571 and designed by the military engineer Giacomo Palearo. The star shaped points were able to control any possible angles of attack. Although the citadel has never encountered any severe defensive attacks, it has been taken once during Napoleon’s reign. The Spanish Civil War in the late 1930s was the last time the citadel was used and Pamplona was demilitarised by the mid-1960s. Today the citadel sits inside a public park with cultural activities taking place in the remaining buildings. In 1973 it was declared a Natural Historic-Artistic Monument.

For the fans of Ernest Hemingway, a visit to Café Iruña is a must if for no other reason than to take a photo with his eternal statue standing at the bar. Built in 1888 and the first establishment to have electricity, Hemingway immortalised the cafe in his first novel, The Sun Also Rises. Hemingway loved Pamplona so much that in a span of four years from 1923-27 he visited it no less than nine times.” (From postcard email).

10th September 2021 – Estella

“Founded nearly 1,000 years ago, Estella is a mix of medieval history, Romanesque architecture, modern day football club and international cycling race.

Built on the wealth of the original inhabitants and a landmark town on the Camino route, Estella displays a fine example of Romanesque architecture as seen in the churches San Miguel and San Pedro de la Rúa. Characterized by semi-circular arches, Estella was at the tail-end of this style of architecture with the Gothic Style making its appearance in the 12th century.

In 1924, Club Deportivo Izarra football team was founded. In 1943 it ascended from Regionals to Division 3 and further ascended to Division 2 by 1990. A series of bad seasons saw it seesaw between divisions until 2015 when it managed to scale the ladder and hold its Division 2 position.

Initially limited to local competition, Estella now plays host to the international GP Miguel Induráin cycling race. The race was inaugurated in 1951 as GP Navarre, named after the region until 1998 when it was rebranded after the Spanish cyclist. In 2020 it joined the UCI ProSeries, a second tier men’s elite road cycling tour.”

13th September 2021 – Logrono

“Logroño is the capital city of the world-famous wine making La Rioja Region and the second largest city on the Camino Frances. Once part of a Roman settlement and then the Celts, by 11th century it was annexed to the Kingdom of Castile.

Fast forward 600 years and the Spanish Inquisition was desperately trying to stamp out witchcraft with the trial of the Basque Witches in 1610. It was the single biggest investigative event of its kind in history with a total of 7,000 cases being examined.

Now if you like tapas, Logroño is THE best place to go. There are some 50 tapas restaurants within a 4 block radius. You are guaranteed to not go hungry. However, if you want a touch of Michelangelo be sure to visit the Cathedral of Santa Maria la Redonda that features one of his paintings.”

22nd September 2021- Atapuerca

“Prehistoric history will lead you to the second UNESCO listed site where human remains … were discovered in the caves of the Sierra de Atapuerca. Remains found were of our Neanderthal predecessor called Homo Heidelbergensis. Paintings and engravings on walls indicate that inhabitants from Neolithic and Bronze Age also resided here.

If you’re feeling fit enough, join the Cross de Atapuerca for its annual cross country running race. With categories ranging from elites to amateurs to children, the race course passes through the archaeological site of Atapuerca.”

23rd September 2021- Burgos

“Dominating the city skyline is the Cathedral of Saint Mary of Burgos. Built in Gothic architecture over 300 odd years (13th-16th century), the Cathedral epitomises the evolution of Gothic style and as such has entered the UNESCO register in 1984.

Rich in ancient churches, convents and landmarks, Burgos is an architectural paradise of the medieval age. Besides the Cathedral other interesting sights are the Monasterio de Las Huelgas, Miraflores Charterhouse and the gateway of Santa Maria erected for Emperor Charles V’s first entrance. It is also the seat of the Metropolitan Roman Catholic Archdiocese.

There are 10 museums in Burgos… . If you are a bookworm and want to know the history of books from its first written form to the current electronic variety make your way down to the Museo del Libro Fadrique de Basilea.

If so inclined on a balmy evening promenade along the riverside till you reach Puente de San Pablo, one of 12 bridges along the Arlanzón River and take a moment to absorb the surrounding history and atmosphere.”

3rd October 2021 – Carrion de los Condes

“Known as Santa Maria in 11th century, it has an even earlier history as a Roman city called Lacóbriga and has been involved in the Praetorian Wars of the 1st century BC. Remains from the 3rd and 4th centuries, such as Roman mansions and villas have been found in Carrión.

Churches and monasteries are aplenty but the highlights are the Church of Santiago and Monasterio de San Zoilo. The Church of Santiago has seen many alterations and fires over the centuries and today is an eclectic mix of architecture beginning with the 12th century. What makes this church a worthy visit is the sculpted frieze above the doorway showing Christ Pantocrator sitting within a mandorla, typical of Romanesque sculpture and considered a masterpiece.

Just outside of town is the Monasterio de San Zoilo. Originally built in the 11th century it went under significant renovations in the 16th century where the Plateresque cloister, Romanesque capitals (columns) and archeological vestiges sit amongst the monastery’s preserved and restored buildings. Within the church you will find Romanesque tombstones of the Counts of Carrion. The monastery has been converted into a luxury hotel.”

At this point in the challenge I had reached the half-way mark and I was about 2 weeks ahead of schedule.

(Quoted sections for the various locations above are from postcard emails received from The Conqueror Challenges, the company that hosts the challenges).